Sore from the trail, we arrived at Kwandwe with nowhere left to be. What we didn’t know is that what followed was the last chapter that belonged only to the two of us.

There's a particular kind of quiet that settles over the Sabi Sand in the late afternoon - a stillness Stefan and I found ourselves in for a month, while he painted murals across camps that already knew how to disappear into the bush.

A week on Alphonse taught me that stillness isn't only found on land - it's in a free dive, a night swim, and a pod of dolphins that undid me before I'd worked out why.